Bouldering In Brittany

Pink Granite Coast : Ile Aux Lapins

Boulders on Ile Aux Lapins  

Approach in a few minutes at lowish tide from the western edge of La Greve Blanche. Two very large boulders can be found here and the right hand boulder (left) has a very striking slabby arete.

 

The boulders are a little disappointing on closer inspection as the walls and faces are largely blank and holdless. However, the back of the right hand boulder contains three minor grooves:

  Photo topo showing the two grooves on the right hand boulder  

1.  Right  5b
Jump for the large (sharp) chicken head. Hard to grade. A good way to get off this boulder.

2.  Left  5a
Also a hardish start.

3.  Runnel  5a
The slab around to the left via ancient chipped footholds to finish up the runnel.

The 'blank' slab to the left may also provide some entertainment.

The striking, undercut, slabby arete on its left hand side would provide a good problem to a talented climber. Despite a good chicken head at the start the initial moves to pass the undercut were beyond me. Alternatively, a traverse in from the right is possible, now follow the arete on its left hand side as far as you can; jump off when your palms are completely trashed.

All in all the bouldering here is a bit of a disappointment, nevertheless it is an interesting place to explore. The island was once occupied by a hermit and the remains of his dwelling can be found beneath the left hand boulder.

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