Full Update
Introduction : This contains identical information to each of the individual (pdf) updates but it also contains several links (ie: to photos, to other pages and to websites) that cannot be included in the individual (pdf) updates.
The pages are presented in a plain and simple format so that they may be easily printed in a web browser. However, if you decide to print this Full Update in your browser (rather than downloading the individual pdf files) you may find the printing tips page to be helpful.
Access: It is pleasing to note that no difficulties regarding access have been reported at Carreg Y Byg. However,climbers are reminded that this quarry lies on private land.
There are two new routes to report:
16a Nautilus E3 5c
A direct line midway between Fossil Crack and Head Banger following the small holds. Nice climbing which is independent of the routes either side. Mainly unprotected.
First Ascent: Ian Campbell, Ghen Tse Goon and Elisabeth Rouse 11/7/0524a Bygger Arete E4 5c
The full height of the arete of Great Buttress. A strong line but a serious lead: protection is spaced and sometimes weak. From a small roof-capped niche, just right of the arete, traverse left to the arete. Stretch for a hollow jug (beware) over a roof and pull around the left side of the arete using holds on the left. Climb the arete more easily to a break (poor thread runner: junction with Byg Arete). Finish delicately up the arete (and don't fall off on this upper section!).
First Ascent: Martin Crocker 25/6/00
Llanymynech Quarry
Introduction: There is little to report at Llanymynech Quarry in the way of new routes. However, Gary Gibson has been busy equipping and re-equipping most of his routes and these details are now provided below. Thanks to Gary for supplying the details. It will be interesting to see if the quarry becomes more popular as there is now a wider range of sports climbs on offer. Details of all of these developments are also available on Gary's website.
The Red Wall
8a I Saw Three Ships 6c+ **
A fine direct pitch between Ship Dip and The Deep which provides excellent and sustained climbing to a belay at two-thirds height. A 60 metre rope is sufficient to lower off.
First Ascent: Gary Gibson 25/12/02.All other routes on The Red Wall (with the exception of Long John Codling) were rebolted during the winter of 2002/03. Grades for the following routes have been revised as follows:
7 Mussel Bound 7a *** photo
8 Ship Dip remains at 6c+ but now **
9 The Deep 6c+ *
10 The Ancient Mariner 7a ***
A 70 metre rope will enable a lower off from just below the top of the crag.11 Dead Man's Fingers 6c+ **
15 Crab Stick 6c * photo
The Black Wall
19 Black Wall **
Now said to be E1 5b.22 Picking Blackheads *
The grade has gone up to E5 6a.Grid Iron Wall
23 Humpty Dumpty 6c+ *
Now bolted and "much better".24 Hickory Dickory Dock 7a **
Now bolted.
25 Incy Wincy Spider 7a+ **
Now bolted. Low in the grade.26 Pew, Pew, Barney, McGrew, Cuthbert, Dibble, Grub 7a+ **
Now bolted. A long reach will be helpful.
28 Curfew 6b+ **
Now bolted. Superb.
28a A Night Torchlight Parade 6c **
Takes a direct line to the left of Curfew. Climb straight up the lower wall and continue direct up the fine upper wall. The initial section, as far as the ledge, can now be used to start Gaza Stripper.
First Ascent: Gary Gibson 31/12/0230 A Night On The Town 6c+
A new start to this route has been added direct up the lower wall and the route has now been bolted.
31 Smack The Juggler 6b+ *
Now bolted.32 Jack The Smuggler 6c+ **
Sustained, excellent and now bolted.
The Nomad Wall
35 Nomad E6 6a ***
Grade increased.
36 The Screaming Skull E6 6b **
Grade increased.
The following two routes can be found on the steep, leftward facing, triangular wall which forms the right hand side of the ‘second cwm’ to the right of Stone The Crows, see page 53 in West Midlands Rock. Abseil from the top of the quarry, into the hanging bay, to gain the start of the routes:
36a Strong Medicine 26m E3 5c *
Climb the lower wall directly (avoiding the corner) to gain the ledge at half-height; bold, cams useful. Climb rightwards, through cracks and blocks, until close to the arete. Gain the top by climbing up and slightly leftwards.
First Ascent: Stu Bradbury, Glen Craven 18/12/02.36b Lust For Life 26m E4 5c/6a ** photo
A better route. Follow Strong Medicine to the ledge at half-height. Climb leftwards and up a short corner to gain a small ledge. Climb up to and past a peg runner, crux, before climbing direct to finish up a shallow bow shaped corner.
First Ascent: Stu Bradbury, Stewart Muir 20/01/03.Tunnel Buttress (See page 53 in West Midlands Rock)
The next route can be found between the entrance to the tunnel and the stile when approaching Blind Faith Buttress, it lies directly above a flowstone boulder on the overhanging flowstone wall which is split by a prominent crack:
36b Shades Of Two Worlds 26m E3 5b 5b
A route of character that would benefit from further cleaning. Start right of the flowstone boulder at a bore hole runnel.
1. 5b. Climb the right to left running groove (cams in the bore hole runnels protect), pull around the bulge to the left to gain the flowstone corner and climb this to a good ledge and belay.
2. 5b. A stunning pitch up the overhanging flowstone wall to the left of the stance. Make a rising traverse leftwards to gain the crack on the left wall. Climb this in a sensational position until a mantel gains a small stance on the left. The short steep wall and a terrifying mantel finish is all that separates you from success (crucial small cams).
First Ascent: Stu Bradbury, Glen Craven (1st pitch) 21/5/04.Nick Dixon is reported to have climbed new routes in the Tunnel Buttress and Cul-de-Sac Quarry areas, unfortunately further details have not been forthcoming.
The following route is situated in the fenced off plantation approx 100 metres right of Cream (Route 48, see page 55 in West Midlands Rock). Start in the small amphitheatre below a clean bulge.
48a Sasha The Basha 20m 7a ** photo
Excellent varied and technical climbing. Climb the initial dusty crack to the roof and move left on the lip (BR) to a hard pull (BR) to gain a standing position above the roof. Move slightly rightwards and up on crimps and edges to a good hold (BR above). Hard moves upwards and slightly left gain better holds and a 'thank god' rest under a small roof. Pull through roof on its right (BR) and follow the delightful slab to a 2 bolt lower off.
First Ascent: Chris Jones, Dylan burgess 6/11/06.
Pontesford Rocks
It is not surprising to report that no new routes have been recorded at Pontesford Rocks since 1995.
The following two routes were both climbed before the appearance of the guide but unfortunately the details were not received in time for publication. Full details are now recorded here.
4a Surplus Requirements-Not 60 feet HVS 5a
Takes a line between Eliminate G and Oak Tree Wall Direct. Start at the upturned V, beneath the thin crack at 15 feet. Climb delicately through the overlap on small holds and avoiding use of large holds in the groove to the left. Gain the thin crack (runner) and then the small ledge. Step right onto the blank slab and move up to a large ledge. Move right for 10 feet to below an overlap in the centre of the slab, climb through this to gain easy ground leading to the terrace and a belay.
First Ascent: M.J.Hirst, J.S.Whitford 27/3/93.19a Vive La Wombat 200 feet E2
Start at the base of the Fifty Foot Wall, between Epiglottis and Varsity Buttress, by a rock pedestal.
1) 130 feet. 4c/5a. Climb straight up the tower until good holds arrive at the top on the right. Continue straight up the rib to belay as for the second pitch of Varsity Buttress.
2) 70 feet. 5b. Start under the obvious large roof. Climb up the slab and make a long reach to a good incut hold on the edge of the overhang. Dynamic moves lead over the right hand side of the overhang. Finish direct to belay on the summit block. Exposed.
First Ascent: Sion Roberts solo 18/9/94 (a back rope was used on pitch 2).
Note: prior to the first ascent the first pitch had been soloed and the second pitch had been top roped.Finally, details of an old route from 1969 have recently been made available:
21a Lonesome Traveller 180 feet VS
More continuous than other routes on this buttress. Start as for East Climb.
1) 40 feet. Move up a few feet then diagonally leftwards to ledge. Directly above this to the tree.
2) 60 feet. Climb the wall above at its left via a short groove to the overhang and then the rib above this.
3) 80 feet. Climb the slab at the left side of The Nose. Up the corner above (The Canopy) to join the finish of Taylors Crack by a strenuous swing. Finish by Varsity Buttress.
First Ascent: John Harwood 14/4/69.
Grinshill
Introduction: Grinshill is now a reasonably attractive venue for a handful of local climbers and boulderers. There has been plenty of new route activity at several of the outcrops and quarries and one or two new areas have also been discovered.
A first ascent list has been produced for Grinshill, see it here
Grades: Please note that adjectival grades are provided at the bottom of this update for a selection of the new routes and for some of the existing routes that have now either been led or soloed. This is something of an experiment for Grinshill. However, the provision of adjectval grades will help to encourage those climbers who decide to lead or solo at Grinshill as the sample of adjectival grades provided are "realistic" ie: they reflect the nature of the rock, the risks involved etc. In this way climbers who lead or solo will be fairly rewarded for the commitment they make.
If this experiment is successful adjectival grades could be fully introduced for every route in the next edition. Comments and feedback would be appreciated.Access: Climbers are requested not to park in Clive village and reminded that the use of the crags by organised groups is prohibited.
Thanks to Adrian Baugh and Martin Crocker for their assistance.
All routes are described from Left to Right:
Church Quarry
5. The Nebuliser 6b *
First recorded lead by Martin Crocker in 2002.Brief and unconfirmed details have been received for two routes on the steep wall to the right of The Nebuliser:
5a. Utopia 6c
The thin crack to the right of The Nebuliser.
First Ascent: Mick Ayling 12/10/94.5b. Sunflower 6a
The short wall to the right of Utopia.
First Ascent: Mick Ayling 1/1/96.Second Church Quarry
Approach: walk up from Church Quarry towards the Far Rocks. When over the rise bear down and right to find a small quarried bay. Due to the tree felling activity this quarry can now be seen from the lower track, ie: from down and to the left of the Far Rocks.
6a. Layback and Think of England 3a
Climb the obvious short flake with great care; the flake would appear to be loose. Short, scary and a poor route.
First Ascent: Adrian Baugh solo 29/12/00.6b. Crumbling Arete 4b
To the right is a system of grooves and an arete. Climb this, initially on poor rock and then on more solid but less substantial, holds.
First Ascent: Adrian Baugh solo 29/12/00.The Outcrops
There has been substantial tree felling activity on the hillside beneath The Far Rocks, Middle Rock and The Top Rocks. This currently looks rather unsightly but it will certainly help the outcrops to dry out faster after rain and it also makes it easier to see the lie of the land. In particular the tree at the start of Sugar Magnolia and Sweetie has now been felled. Also, the left hand section of Broken Buttress (where no routes were previously recorded) is now a very much more open and attractive area.
The Far Rocks
On the short 'blunt' buttress approximately 15 metres to the left of Clare Has Wings is:
6c. Powder Keg 4c
Start beneath an overlap with a groove above it. Climb up the short slab, through the overlap and up the pocketed groove above. Make an awkward step left and finish more easily.
First Ascent: Adrian Baugh solo 12/3/00.8a. What Has It Got In Its Pocketses? 4a
Start 5m right of the crack adjacent to Bleed With The Moon in a shallow groove immediately left of a small v-shaped overlap. Climb the groove to a sloping ledge and continue direct, exiting behind a tree root.
First Ascent: Adrian Baugh solo 1/8/00.The Sugar Lump
Two routes have been added to the impending green wall forming the left hand side of the narrow gully to the left of Sugar Baby Love:
14a. Fillings 5a
Climb the left hand side of the impending green wall via a large pocket. Reach the sandy break above and finish more easily up the slab above. Rather nondescript.
First Ascent: Adrian Baugh solo 29/9/00.14b. A Visit To The Dentist 5c *
Start just to the right of Fillings. Climb the centre of the impending wall using tiny holds and a small pocket to a good slot immediately under the nose. Climb directly through the (sometimes rather sandy) overlaps and finish more delicately above.
First Ascent: Adrian Baugh solo 29/9/00.15. Sugar Baby Love 5c
Now soloed by Martin Crocker on 24/6/00.
Please note that the tree that used to reside underneath this route has fallen over and a fall from the top moves would now be rather more serious.15a. Grinning Fearfully 6a *
The arete direct. Step off the leaning silver birch and follow spaced pockets up the blunt arete; finish direct over the roof on jugs as for Sugar Baby Love. In the event of a fall, avoid the tree!
First Ascent: Martin Crocker solo 24/6/00.The Doughnut
18a. Endless Wall 5c
From the foot of the step down, climb direct up the compact wall to finish with difficulty up a small flake crack to the left of Tea Time.
First Ascent: Martin Crocker solo 24/6/00.19. Tea Time 5b
Now soloed by Martin Crocker on 24/6/00.20. Tart 6a *
Now soloed by Martin Crocker on 24/6/00.22. Cream 6a *
Now soloed by Martin Crocker on 24/6/00.23. Fillo 5b
Now soloed by Martin Crocker on 24/6/00.Roly Poly Wall
24. Twenty Five Ways To Eat Fish 5b
Now soloed by Adrian Baugh on 29/9/00.26. Spotted Dick 5c
Led by Martin Crocker in 2002.28. Drive 5a
Now soloed by Adrian Baugh on 12/3/00.Some confusion has been experienced with the location of Grip and Mr Creosote (routes 29 and 30). Amended location details are therefore as follows:
The wall just to the right of Drive is crowned by an overhang but the lower wall is poor and very broken. Just to the right of this and at a slightly lower level is a steep red/brown wall. On the left hand side of this wall there is a sloping ledge, this is the start of Grip.Middle Rock
31. Captain Haddock 5b
Now soloed by Martin Crocker on 24/6/00.32. Snowy 5b
Now soloed by Martin Crocker on 24/6/00.The small tree at the start of Tom Tit and Caesar's Palace has now gone.
The Top Rocks
Broken Buttress
Two routes have now been recorded on the left hand section of Broken Buttress. Traverse leftwards from the base of Evensong and drop down to reach an area recently cleared of trees.
44a. Hour Of Rebirth 5a *
Climb directly to the short roof crack in the upper overhang and finish through it.
First Ascent: Adrian Baugh solo 12/2/0444b. Harvey Denton's Toads 4b *
The obvious rightwards trending groove is followed in its entirety.
First Ascent: Adrian Baugh solo 12/2/04.
Main Buttress
62. Main Eliminate 5c *
Now soloed by Adrian Baugh on 16/4/00 and also led by Martin Crocker in 2000.The Upper Quarries
First Upper Quarry
66a. Times Of Sand 5a
A direct line up the slender green slab around to the left of the narrow pillar taken by Sands Of Time. A hanging rope is recommended for the precarious exit.
First Ascent: Adrian Baugh solo 12/2/04.Second Upper Quarry
There is evidence of some activity in the Second Upper Quarry. The very steep wall to the left of Shiver Me Timbers contains a number of pegs just to the right of the undercut arete. The centre of the equally steep wall to the right of Shiver Me Timbers also contains a couple of bolts although the hangers have been removed. No further details are available for these two routes/projects.
The Far Quarries
The three small quarried bays now provide the following routes:
72a. Far Quarry Corner 4c
Climb the rather vegetated corner of the left hand quarry, stepping left just below the top to exit at a tree by the wooden railings.
First Ascent: Adrian Baugh solo 29/12/00.72b. Spiderman Corner 6a * photo
Climb the short technical corner just to the right of One Minute To Glory. A particularly nice problem despite the rather grotty finish.
First Ascent: Adrian Baugh solo 29/12/00.72c. Plimsoll Arete 5a
Boulder up the short arete right of Spiderman Corner, most easily on its left hand side.
First Ascent: Adrian Baugh solo 29/9/00.The wall between Spiderman Corner and Plimsoll Arete is 6a (to the right of the tree) but it is very artificial due to the presence of the tree.
72d. Fear and Loathing 4b
Climb the slab just left of the right hand quarried bay on appalling rock. Not recommended.
First Ascent: Adrian Baugh solo 29/9/00.72e. Half Moon 5b
Climb the left hand arete of the right hand quarried bay on its right hand side. The substance of this route is provided by the boulder problem start.
First Ascent: Adrian Baugh solo 29/9/00.72f. Flaky Wall 4c photo
Ten metres downhill from the central quarried bay is a small steep slab covered with tiny, but apparently quite strong, flakes. Starting at the lowest point, climb these directly.
First Ascent: Adrian Baugh solo 29/9/00.By traversing left from Flaky Wall a rather interesting slab can be found. This has been climbed to provide Hidden Slab, 4c, (Adrian Baugh solo 29/9/00) but this route should not be repeated as it lies directly above a house and a fall from the slab would cause considerable damage to both the climber and the house.
Grades (see note above)
Martin Crocker has provided adjectival grades for his new routes and for a number of other routes as follows:
The Nebuliser E5 6b*
Sugar Bullets E2 5a*
Sugar Baby Love E4 5c
Grinning Fearfully E5 6a*
Endless Wall E3 5c
Tea Time E2 5b
Tart E4 6a*
Cream E5/6 6a*
Fillo E3 5b
Twenty Five Ways To Eat Fish E1 5b
Spotted Dick E3 5c
Captain Haddock E2 5b
Snowy E3 5b
Tin Tin E3 5c*
Main Overhang E2 5c*
Main Eliminate E3 5c*
Nesscliffe
A new guide to Nesscliffe by Nick Dixon was published in 2006.
Minor Crags : Shropshire
Harmerhill
The First Quarry
The right hand corner of the gently overhanging wall to the right of Sling Your Hook provides:
5a Monkey See, Monkey Do E3 5b 27m **
Climb the wildy overhanging corner crack by means of a combination of bridging, jamming and arm bars. Two peg runners and numerous cams provide protection. Please do not climb this route during the nesting season in order to avoid causing disturbance to any nesting birds.
First Ascent: Stu Bradbury, I Clelford 24/6/00.
Stiperstones
Access: Unfortunately, climbing at Stiperstones is currently banned. The following is taken from the BMC's Regional Access Database (RAD):
"Climbing is not permitted at the Stiperstones due to the biological and geological importance of the site."
Follow the link below (in a new window) to check for updates:
http://www.thebmc.co.uk/outdoor/rad/rad.asp
One new route has been reported in The Devil's Chair Area, unfortunately the precise location of this route is not clear:
Sea Dreams E2 6a
"The sheer wall between the 5a arete and the 4a crack on the Devil's Chair outcrop. Bad landing."
The following two crags should have been included in the guidebook and I am not sure why I decided to leave them out.....possibly because they are crap!
Cardingmill Valley (Church Stretton)
The routes on this outcrop have been claimed several times since the guidebook first appeared and hopefully this information will now help to clarify the situation. The original descriptions and details of approach for this outcrop are quoted in full here. Please note that these three routes have not been checked and an appropriate degree of caution may therefore be required.
"An igneous outcrop situated in Cardingmill Valley. From the centre of Church Stretton follow the signs into the Cardingmill valley. Follow the road until it deteriorates into a track which is then follwed until a small compact crag is seen on the left and a few yards from the track.
Indirect Route 95 feet VD
1) 50 feet. Start up the centre of the large triangular wall but go left at the first ledge to the foot of a green corner. Climb directly up this and then follow easy rock to the pinnacle belay.
2) 45 feet. Either climb the corner or the wall to the top of the belay and then the wall above to a large ledge below a small overhanging wall which is climbed to the top.
First Ascent: R.Hey, D.Brewer 6/12/69.The Cauldron 75 feet Severe
1) 45 feet. Start as for Indirect Route but keep straight up the wall to the pinnacle belay.
2) 30 feet. Left of the belay is a short steep wall. Climb this on its left side to a ledge and up to the top.
First Ascent: D. Brewer, R.Hey, J.D.Griffiths 6/12/69.Hey-Maker 90 feet Severe
Start at the right hand edge of the wall (difficult) and climb up to a grass rake. Climb straight over the bulge and step right onto the slab which is followed direct to the top.
First Ascent: R.Hey, J.D.Griffiths 6/12/69."
The Wrekin
Introduction : There are several outcrops of volcanic rock on the south-eastern flanks of The Wrekin at OS Ref: 627 079 sheet 127. There is evidence that these outcrops have been used by climbers for a considerable number of years. Please note that this update only serves as an introduction to the area and the outcrops may warrant more detailed coverage in future editions of the guide. However, this is by no means a substantial venue for climbers and the real value of the area remains for those locals who wish to combine some climbing or bouldering with a pleasant walk or a family picnic.
Approach : Approach as for Fairy Glen Quarry; leave the M54 at junction 7 and head south on the minor road sign-posted for "Little Wenlock and The Wrekin". After one mile there is parking on both sides of the road at a T-junction. The horrific Fairy Glen Quarry can be found on the left, a short distance beyond this road junction. From the parking area, follow the track (initially past a small brick building) that winds through the trees, passing a cafe, to eventually reach the trig. points at the top of The Wrekin. Allow approximately 30 minutes for this approach.
The first of the outcrops to be described, the Needle's Eye Outcrop, lies approximately 250 metres to the south west of the trig. points, on the left hand side of the main path. The outcrops are described from Left to Right (when facing rock):
Needle's Eye Outcrop
Reaching a maximum height of some 15 metres this is the largest and probably the most substantial of the three outcrops. However, the rock is rather shattered and not entirely beyond suspicion. There is also a lack of natural lines and protection will be hard to find for those who wish to lead. One route, of some historical interest, is described here and there is also some limited low level bouldering, especially on the shorter left hand wall.
1. Needle's Eye D 15 m
Approach from the left hand side of the pinnacle and carefully pick a suitable line on the upper wall to finish.Have you passed through the Needle's Eye? Well, if not, according to tradition you cannot call yourself a true Salopian. There is also a legend that maidens must not look back when they climb through or they will never be wed.
Middle Outcrop
This can be found a short distance to the right and at a slightly lower level.
Reaching a maximum height of approximately 10 metres, this outcrop may offer some potential for a number of short, steep routes following slightly more obvious natural lines. There is also some low level bouldering on the steep lower wall on the right hand side of the outcrop.Right Hand Outcrop
This lies approximately one hundred metres to the right of Middle Outcrop. Unfortunately, it is very much more broken and terminates in some short, dirty slabs on the right hand side. It is of very little interest to the climber.
Lower Pinnacle
Directly below the Right Hand Outcrop there is a slender buttress which narrows to form a square cut pinnacle at its apex:
Climb the centre of the butress from the lowest point with an awkward move onto the square cut ledge. Descend the short wide crack to escape from the summit.
The Malvern Hills
Roger Smith has produced a photo topo for The Malvern Hills. This topo includes details of a new venue along with details of several routes omitted from the 1995 guide. The photo topo (pdf) can be accessed from here
©2004 Westmidlandsrock.co.uk
